Manufacturing of footwear



C. H. MORRILL MANUFACTURE OF FOOTWEAR May 11 192 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed 001:. 1.8. 1920 'mxw May 11 1926.- A 1,583,850

Cl H. MORRILL MANUFACTURE OF FOOTWEAR Filed Oct 18, 1920 3 s nsh t g May 11 1926.

C. H. MORRILL MANUFACTURE OF FOOTWEAR Filed Oct. 18. 1920 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 MAMQM f Patented May 11, 1926.

UNITED srA'rEs PATENT "oFFic f CHARLES H. MORRILL, 0E swAMrsc'orr, MASSACHUSETTS, Assrendn 'ro UNITED-1 SHOE MAcHmERYconronAt-eron, or rArE-asonnEw JERSEY, A conrormrron OF NEW JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE or FOOTWEAR.

Application filed October 18, 1929; Serial No. $17,711.

This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of foot Wear and is particularly concerned with the manufacture of overshoes such as high arctics, the present application being a continuation so far as common subject-matter is concerned of a prior application Ser. No. 289,869, filed in my name, said application having resulted in Patent No. 1,369,260;

Hitherto such arctics have been manufactured by building them up piece by piece upon a form, the workman fitting and lapping the pieces as the building-up process progresses. One object of the present invention is to provide a high arctic in the manufacture of which the building-up procc-ss as described above and hitherto practised may be dispensed with, the parts of the upper being put together while flat or substantially so and joined to make a closed upper which may be placed upon a last preparatory to incorporating in the arctic an insole and an outsole.

A method .of making a low arctic in this general manner is disclosed in a prior application Ser. No. 271,397, filed in my name, said application having resulted in Patent No. 1,506,074. There are, however, certain difficulties encountered in making high or bellows-tongued arctics which are peculiar to that type. These difiiculties arise cliiefiy from the fact that the last upon which a high arctic is made and finally vulcanized has a leg portion and is formed with a reentrant curve at the front in the locality of the ankle, the last corresponding in shape to the shape of the foot and lower portion of the leg of the wearer. In order to permit the last to be put int-o and taken out of the arctic, there must be a fullness in the upper portion of the arctic when it is unbuckled; and, on the other hand, when the arctic is buckled, it should fit the reentrant curve which has been referred to. In order to produce the desired fullness in the one case as well as to cause the desired fit in the other, the front portion of the arctic,v according to the present invention, is made in two parts, hereinafter referred to as the upper front section and the lower front section which are joined in a suitable manner so as to produce the fullness and to secure the fit referred to. In the illustrative arctic the lower front section is so out out that when flat its upper edge is substantially straight and the upper front 7 section is so cut out that when flat its lower edge has a reentrant angle. The linear 8X".

tent of these two edges (which are later, to be joined) is substantially equal but the width of the upper section in. the locality of the edge having the reentrant angle is less than the width of the lower section in the locality of its straight edge. During the joining of. these twoedges, the lower edge of the upper front section is pulled out straight, such straightening producing the desired fullness in the upper section and providing a front section which will lit the cur vature of the front of the last.

One objection to the usual bellows tongu'e arctic is that the front is commonly made of a plurality of parts connected by substantially vertical joints or by a V-shaped joint whichextend or extends well. below the instep practically to the bottom of the bellows. Such joints although usually covered by the bellows when the arctic issbuckled,

do not always reliably exclude moisture,

particularly when snow becomes packed under the lower portions of the bellows and melts in that position. In: this connection it should be noted that" the substantially horizontal transverse joint of the arctic of the present invention located as it is at about the level of the ankle is. not open to this objecti'on.

Referring now to the accompanying drawings,-' r

Fig. 1 is a plan of the front sectionslaid out flat, the assembled front lining being indicated by dotted and ,full lines in the position it occupiesin the finished arctic, al though it should be understood that it is not placed in'this position until after the upper and lower sections of the fronthave been joined.

Fig. 2- is a perspective of a completed arctic on its last. v V

Fig. 8 is a View, partly in'plan and partly in perspective, of the quarterlining, and

Figure 4 is a perspective showing the same parts as are shown in Fig. 1 but as they ap pear when joined together. i

Fig. 5 is a plan of two front sections of a modified form,

Fig. 6 is a perspective of an arctic onits section.

the wearer.

joint produced by joining the sections of Fig. 5.

In the manufacture of the illustrated arctic various pieces are first cut out from sheet stock, or, as in the case'of the buckles, made of metal; and then these pieces are assembled to form the assembled front, the assembled front lining, etc. Thereafter these assembled parts are joined together, various single pieces being also used, to form a closed upper. This closed upper, together with an insole is then assembled upon alast, the upper lasted, the outsole laid and the whole arctic vulcanized. The assembling upon the last and the subsequent steps are or may be carried out as described in said Patent No. 1,506,074, and consequently these steps will not be described in detail.

The putting together of the upper will now be described but is should be understood that the order in which the steps are carried out is in many instances immaterial and that the particular order in which they are described below has been chosen largely to promote brevity and clearness of description. The upper section 7 and lower section 9 of the front are cut out and when laid fiat have the outlines shown in Fig. 1. Each section may be said to comprise two portions, a middle portion, which is designed to contact with the front of the last (and with the front of the foot and leg of the wearer) and side portions or wings which with the forward portions of the quarters form in the finished arctic the wings of the bellows. The wings of the upper section of the front are indicated at 11 and those of the lower section at 18. The upper edge 15 of the lower section 9 is substantially straight, and

the lower edge 17 of the upper section has a re-entrant portion, shown in Fig. 1 as a re-entrant angle. The linear extent of the edge 17 and that of the edge 15 is substantially the same but the width of the lower extremity of the upper section is less than that of the upper extremity of'the lower These two sections are joined by pulling the edge 17 out straight and fastening it to the edge 15, the effect being as shown in Fig. 4, to produce a fullness in the uppe section and to form a break along the line of the joint- The fullness is necessary to permit the finished arctic to be placed upon and removed from the last and the foot of The brake in connection with the fullness permits the front to be fitted to the curvature of the front of the last as well as that of the front of the foot and leg of the wearer. It should be noted that this joint is a transverse one which is located at about the height of the ankle and that a joint so placed has the advantage over the usual vertical or substantially vervtica-l joints in front as hitherto employed, the lower ends of which extend down well immaterial.

stood that the particular fastening means" whether tape, stitches or other means, is The parts 7 9 joined together form the assembled front and are commonly made of cashmerette or of rubber.

The assembled front lining is shown in dotted and full lines in Fig. 1 and in the same kind of lines as well as partly in perspective in Fig. 4. I The assembled front lin ing comprises two sections of fleece lining, an upper section 19 and a lower section 21, a gum vamp 23 and a friction vamp 25. The gum vamp is made of rubber. The friction vamp is made of friction fabric, that is, in this case, of fabric having a coating of rubber on both sides. It should be understood that all the pieces which go to make up the upper of the arctic are tacky on one or both sides by reason of the presence of unvulcanized rubber and that consequently the pieces adhere to one another when brought into contact and are firmly attached together by the subsequent vulcanization process- The upper and lower sec tions 19, 21 of the front fleece lining are cut in a manner similar to that of the upper and lower sections of the front and are joined similarly. In the illustrated arctic the fastening is by means of stitches 27 but any suitable fastening means may be used. The transverse joint in the fleece lining is so located that, When the lining is later applied to the front, the joint in the lining will be out of register (in the present case connection with the front. The fleece lining having been made as described, there is laid upon it the gum vamp 23 and then over the gum vamp is laid the friction vamp 525. These three parts, the fleece lining, the gum vamp and the friction vamp are rolled to bring their surfaces into firm contact, the resulting part being called the assembled front lining. The lower curved edges of the fleece lining of the gum vamp and of the friction vamp are substantially one above another and extend well down beyond the lower curved edge of the lower section 9 of the front.

The quarter sections, one of which is shown at 29, are cut out and to them are attached the tongues 31 and ladders 32 of the buckles and other parts which are not essential to an explanation of the present incense invention. 7 The rear edges of the quarters are properly curved so that when these edges are joined the quarters will fit about the rear portion of the last. It should. be noted, however, that the quarters are of such l ieig-ht that in the finished arctic they do not extend down to the bottom of the arctic but, like the front, terminate just below the upper edge of the for-ing" which will presently be referred to. The quarter sections 29 with their attached buckles and other parts (not shown) constitute the assembled quarters.

Referring now to Fig. 3, the assembled quarter lining, which, in the finished arctic is. attached half to one quarter and half to the other, comprises a fleece lining 3 3, a tape fastener 35, a friction back stay 37, a rag junior or counter 39 and a friction junior or counter 41. The fleece lining 33 is shown in full lines in its final shape after the inverted V=shaped opening in its lower portion has been closed and the fastening tape 35 applied. The dotted lines at the lower portion of the fleece. lining show the shape of said lower portion when it is cut out. At this. time there is an. inverted V-shap'ed openingklS in its lower medial portion. The sides of this opening are brought together and fastened by the tape 35 so that, when the assembled upper ofthe arctic (including this lining) is placed on the last, the lower part of this lining will fit properly about the lower heel end of the last. Over the tape isplac'ed the friction stay 37, over that the rag junior 39, and over the rag junior the friction junior 41, the several. parts when thus put together .and rolled constituting the assembled quarter lining.

Thus far there have been described the assembled front, the assembled front lining, the assembled quarters and the assembled quarter lining. In additionto these parts there are prepared a. heel foxing 45', a toe foXing' l-7 both of unvulcanized rubber and two so-called pockets of cloth frictioned or rubberized on one surface.

These pockets are substantially -V-. shaped pieces which, when in place, are linings for the pockets, one of which is indicated at 49' (Fig. 2) which. are formed at the junction of the forward edges of the quarters and the side edges of the front. Referring to Fig. 2, the upper edge of the pocket at the side of the arctic shown extends from about the point A to about the point B and covers the inside of the arctic on the side of the arctic shown throughout the locality not covered by the front lining and the quarter lining. These socalled pockets are commonly used in the manufacture of high arctics and, it is believed, need. no detailed; description.

When all the various parts, which have been described above, have been prepared, the upper is put together as follows, it being understood that as: the pieces "which: are superposed to form various arts are placed one upon another, theyare rolled or other wise pressed into firmcontact. The side margins of the wings of the assembled front are attached to the forward margins of the assembled quarters the manner shown in Fig 2. This attachment takes place'throughout a fairly wide marginal portion of the parts, the location of the inner edge of the attached surfaces being roughly indicated by the dotted line 51. The so"-called pockets, which, as have been explained are really lining pieces, are now fitted into the pockets 49. The assembled front lining is placed in the position shown best in Fig. 4. The rear edges of the quarters are next sewed together with the upper wrong'side out and then the seam is pressed and taped. The upper, still wrong side out, is placed upon a form shaped to support the rear part of the upper properly, and the assembled quarter lining is laid in place. The upper is then turned right side out and the joints at" the lower connected portions of the front and quarters and the front andquarter' linings stitched if desired. The foxings' 45 and 47 are finally laid, and the upper is then ready to be assembled with an insole upon the last 53 and the lasting andsole laying. operations carried out. The arctic on the last is then put into the vulcanizing oven. v

I igs. 5' and 6 show more particularlyhow the upper and lower sections of the front (and ofcourse the fleece lining) may be cut with the edges which are to be joined o-f difierent outlines from those of Fig; 1 and yet substantially the same result secured, namely, the production of the fullness and the capability of fitting the last. In these figures the" parts which correspond to or are identical with parts shown in the previous figures have been given the same numerals increased by one hundred. In this embodiment, the upper edge of the lower section 109 of the front is not straight but has a slightly re-entrant curve as shown,

and the lower edge of the upper section has 4 a re-entrant portion of greater curvature than that of the upper edge of the lower sec tion. The linear extent of the two edges is, however, substantially equal so that, when the lower edge of the upper section is pulled out sufficiently, the two edges may be joined with substantially the same effect as has been described 'in connection with the forms shown in Figs. 1, 2 and' l. In Fig. 6 the joint is shown substantially as it appears in the finished. arctic. It will be" noted that this joint, like the corresponding one shown in Fig. l, is substantially horizontal, extends transversely across the front of the are tic and is located at a level approximately that of the ankle.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Let-c ters Patent of the United States is:

1. The method of manufacturing an overshoe which comprises making thefront portion which covers the forward portion of the leg and the forward portion of the foot of the wearer in two sections having edges located at about the level of the ankle and designed to be oined, the edge ofone section having a given outline and the edge of the other section having a different outline such that by distorting the last-named edge in the direction of its length a fullness is pro duced in said last-named section, and said last-named .edge is caused to assume the outline of thefirst-named edge, so distorting the lastnamed edge, joining the edges and com pleting the manufacture of the overshoe including subjecting it to vulcanization.

2. The method of manufacturing an overshoe which comprises making the front portion which covers the forward. portion of the leg and the forward portion of the foot of the wearer in two sections having edges lo cated at about the level of the ankle and designed to be joined, the edge of one sec tion having a given outline and the edge of the other section being re-entrant to such a degree and of such outline that ei-zerting a suitable pull upon it to reduce the degree of its re-entrant will cause it to assume the outline of the edge of the other 7 section and at the same time produce a fullness in said, pulled section, exerting such a pull, joining the edges and completing the manufacture of the overshoe including subjecting it to vulcanization.

3. The method of manufacturing an overshoe which comprises making the front portion which covers the forward portion of the leg and the forwardp'ortion of the foot of the wearer in two sections, such that, when flat, one section is narrower than the other in the locality of that one of its edges which is to be joined to an edge of the'other section than is the other section in the locality of said second-named edge, the edge of the firstnamed section being re entrant to such a degree and of such outline that exciting a suitable pull upon that edge will cause it to assume the outline of the second-named edge and at the same time that will produce a fullness in the section of which it forms one edge, exerting such a pull, joining the edges, and completing the manufacture of the overshoe including subjecting it to vulcanization.

4E. The method of manufacturing an overshoe which comprises making the front portion which covers the forward portion of the leg and the forward portion of the foot of the wearer in two sections such that, whenfiat, onesection is narrower in the locality of that one of its edges which is to be joined to an edge of the other section than is the other section in the locality of said lastnamed edge, the edge of the first-named section being re-entrant to sucha degree that the linear extent of its edge'is substantially equal to the linear extent of the edge of the second-named section, straightening the edge of the first-named section suiiiciently to produce a fullness in said section, joining it to the edge of the second-named section, and completing the manufacture of the overshoe including subjecting it to vulcanization.

5. The method of manufacturing an overshoe which comprises making that portion which covers the front of the leg and the front of the foot of the wearer in two jointless sections, connecting the sections by a substantially horizontal joint so made that tothe upper edge of the section but not to the lower edge there is imparted a fullness, and completing'the manufacture of the overshoe including subjecting it to vulcanization. v

6. The method of manufacturing an overce which comprises attaching the forward of the quarters to the front portion,

ening the rear edges of the quarter together to form a closed upper, and thereafter placing the closed upper together with an insole upon a last and completing the manufacture of the overshoe.

7. The method of manufacturing an overshoe which comprises providing an assembled front portion, an assembledfront portion lining, two assembled quarters, and an assembled quarter lining, attaching the quarters to the front portion, applying the front portion lining to the front portion, attaching the free rear edges of the quarters together, applying the quarter lining to the quarters to form a closed upper, and thereafter placing the closed upper together with an insole upon a last and completing the manufacture of the overshoe.

8. The method of manufacturing an overshoe which comprises making the front portion which covers the forward portion of the leg and the forward portion of the foot of the wearer in two sections, connecting the sections by a joint which is substantially transverse to the height of the overshoe, making two quarters, joiningitheir forward edges to the rear edges of the forward por tion, joining their rear edges to each other to form a closed upper, placing the closed upper together with an insole non a last, and completing the manufacture of the shoe including subjecting it to vulcanization.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

CHARLES H. MORRILL.

Ill) 

